Fried chicken in the American style relies on a dense, well-seasoned crust, frequently made even thicker by soaking the chicken parts in buttermilk in advance. The chicken is exquisite when the crust is nubbly and uniformly browned, and the chicken meat is cooked through it. But too often, when the crust is baked, the flesh is either raw or the skin never cooks all the way through, leaving a flabby layer of skin between the crust and the meat.

Fried chicken in the Korean style is drastically different, representing an Asian frying technique that transforms the skin's fat into a thin, crackly, and almost transparent crust. "The chicken is unseasoned, barely dredged in very fine flour and then dipped into a thin batter before going into the fryer. (Chinese cooks call this" paper fried chicken.) There is a relatively low oil temperature of 350 degrees, and the chicken is cooked in two separate phases.

Southerners were not the first people to fry their chickens in the country. Almost every country, from Vietnam's Gà Xaò to Italy's pollo fritto, has a version of fried chicken, or Fricassee. It is assumed that here in the United States, the Scottish people who settled in the early South developed the process. Rather than baking or boiling them as the English did, they preferred to fry their chickens. It was not until the early 1900s that the famous "northern" cookbooks started to display recipes for fried chicken.

The chickens are simply cut, dredged in flour, sprinkled with a little salt, put in a hot fat saucepan, and fried until golden brown. There have been hundreds of attempts to strengthen her recipe over the years, and many tricks and special touches, but they are all just slight variations of the original. With the "leavings" science articles, Mary Randolph describes making a gravy, but the cream sauce so frequently served with fried chicken seems to have originated with the "Maryland fried chicken" dish. Please visit the website www. Ready for fried chicken. Indomunch.com for additional information.

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