A mere couple of decades ago, classy, expensive Puerto Vallarta was just a quaint little fishing village on the glorious Bahia de las Banderas. All that, however, changed. In the wake of the entrance of luminaries including Richard Burton and Liz Taylor, and The NIght of the Iguana, villas and condominiums, timeshare, luxurious hotels have given a fresh approach to Puerto Vallarta to life. Some of the old buildings in the first town have now been altered to become hip restaurants, art galleries and souvenir stores, while the sandy central beaches along the 150km (93-mile) coastline of Bahia de las Banderas have become favourites for day-to-day cruise excursions.


On both sides of the Rio Cuale, old Puerto Vallarta is the commercial center of the pretty town. A lovely malecon, or promenade, provides a focal point each evening for itinerant sellers and strollers. There are a small Museo Arqueologico, cafes, stores and galleries. The shady Plaza de Armas is the main square or zocalo. Here the tourist office is housed by the Palacio Municipal, while a block to the east is the Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe with its uncommon tower. The annual fiesta of the Virgin of Guadalupe is especially riotous here, with over ten days of parties. Other famous dates comprise the biennial Regatta between the Marina del Rey and Puerto Vallerta, the annual fishing tournament in November, and the Semana Santa celebrations.


Mariachi, really all music, is large in Puerto Vallarta, and there are several local restaurants where live mariachi music accompanies dinner. Catering to the diner who needs a little Mexican tradition with a buffet, the longstanding La Iguana offers nightly shows, as do many of the luxurious hotels.